When Kenyan mountaineer Cheruiyot Kirui set off to conquer Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen in April, he was well aware of the significant risks, including the dangers of frostbite and life-threatening altitude illnesses like HAPE and HACE.
Kirui, a banker by profession, remained optimistic throughout his challenging journey to the highest peak on Earth, as evident from his social media updates. He was confident in his ability to succeed.
Tragically, he did not survive.
The Chebisaas High School alumnus perished just as he was about to embark on the final leg of his mission. His body was found a few meters below the summit, a day after he and his guide were reported missing.
Kirui had meticulously planned his daring expedition, sharing his strategy with his followers on social media.
On Instagram, he detailed his 10-day acclimatization period at base camp and his intention to summit the 8,848.86m mountain without supplemental oxygen. This no-oxygen attempt required special preparations and carried substantial risks, which he acknowledged from the start. Physically, he believed he was ready.
He was also acutely aware of the expedition’s other risks, such as extreme cold, medical emergencies, and the need for emergency oxygen. He shared his journey step-by-step on Instagram and Facebook, although his accounts have been inactive for the past five days.
The expedition was a significant physical, mental, and financial investment for Kirui, who balanced it with his banking career.
To combat the cold, Kirui had equipped himself with heated gloves, mittens, and socks, along with spare batteries. Medically, he was prepared with nifedipine for High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), a serious condition where fluid fills the lungs at high altitudes. For High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which causes brain swelling and is potentially fatal, he carried dexamethasone and acetazolamide.
For emergencies, his guide, Nawang Sherpa, carried an emergency oxygen bottle. Kirui’s plan also accounted for various contingencies like adverse weather, physical limits, and traffic jams on the mountain. He humorously noted the financial burden of the expedition, joking about declaring bankruptcy upon returning to Kenya.
In his communications, Kirui expressed his excitement about documenting his journey with photos, even from the basecamp.
Kirui and his guide, Nawang Sherpa, were reported missing after losing contact with base camp officials at Bishop Rock. Rescuers from Seven Summit Treks later found Kirui’s body near the summit. Nawang’s last communication indicated that Kirui had refused to use bottled oxygen and was acting erratically.
Kirui’s schoolmate, Shadrack Mwirotsi, remembered him as someone who relished extreme outdoor challenges, often participating in ultra-challenges beyond typical marathons. Mwirotsi recounted Kirui’s passion for these adventures and his understanding of the risks involved.
The Everest climbing season, which has already seen several deaths, faces growing dangers due to overcrowding. Climbers share the same route up and down, leading to bottlenecks, especially in the death zone where the thin air and extreme cold are perilous. These bottlenecks increase the risk of altitude sickness and exhaustion, potentially becoming fatal.
Despite discussions about reducing the number of permits, the 2024 climbing season is expected to see a high volume of climbers, with the permit cost set to rise from $11,000 to $15,000 in 2025.
